EverestHistory.com: Alberto Iñurrategui

Basque climber, Alberto Iñurrategui was born in 1968. In 2002 he became only the 10th climber and youngest climber in history to reach the summits of all fourteen of the world’s 8000m peaks. This feat was completed without the use of bottled oxygen. It took Alberto 10 years, 7 months and 16 days to accomplish his goal, a dream that began with his climbing partner and younger brother Felix.

The brothers climbed 12 of the 8000m peaks together, starting with Makalu in 1991, Everest in 1992, and K2 in 1994 and in September of 1995 they climbed both Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In 1996 they climbed Kangchenjunga and Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak in 1997, Dhaulagiri in 1198, Nanga Parbat in 1999 and Manaslu in 2000.  In 2000 after reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II, Felix fell to his death when the rope he was using to rappel snapped.

Alberto disappeared from the climbing community after his brother’s tragic death and refused to speak publicly on the matter. However, by 2002 he was climbing again and when he reached the summit of Gasherbrum I, it was Felix’s ice axe he was leaning on.

One year later, May 2002 Alberto reached the summit of Annapurna, completing his journey to the top of the world’s highest peaks.

In 2004 Alberto was awarded the Grand Prize at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival (UK) for his film ‘Hire Himalaya’ (Your Himalaya). The film was a heart felt tribute to the younger brother he had grown up climbing throughout the Pyrenees and Alps.

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