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EverestHistory.com:  Andrej Stremfelj


Andrej Stremfelj of Kranj was born in 1956. He started climbing at the age of 16 with his brother Marko. They climbed throughout the Slovenian mountains making many first ascents along the way. It did not take Andrej long to set his sights on higher mountains and distant lands. He has climbed Mount Everest twice. The first time was in 1979. He climbed the West Ridge, the most demanding route on May 13. He made a second climb on Everest in 1990 up the South Col, with his wife Marija. Together they made history, becoming the first married couple to summit Everest.

Two years after leaving Slovenia and after his first expedition to Caucasus, Andrej completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum I by the south west ridge, he was only 20. And just two years later he climbed Everest for the first time with his climbing partner Nejc Zaplotnik. In his youth he climbed hard, Lhotse, Pik of Communism and a first ascent up the east face of Dhaulagiri. With just one week between climbs in 1986 he climbed Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. He also made a first ascent of the south face of Shisha Pangma before summiting Everest with his wife.

Andrej was awarded the prestigious Golden Pick award in 1991 for his perfect, technically demanding, elegant alpine style climb up the south ridge of Kangchenjunga (8476m). The following year, along with the same climbing partner Marko Prezelj, he reached the summit of until then, unclimbed Menlungtse (7181m).

In the early 1990s he slowed down a little and changed scenery by climbing more in North America and Patagonia. By 1995 he was ready to return to the Himalayan Mountains with his wife and climb Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang. He remains a living legend and continues to climb hard back in the Slovenian Mountains of his youth.

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